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Dredging
Many different dredge sizes for the suction dredge.
We have the 2-8 inch dredges are the most common among the small gold prospector.
My dredge was made by a guy in South Carolina. Here below is a picture of it. It is a 3 inch dredge, made from aluminum.
 
Some of the manufactures are Keene, Proline, and many more....
Here is a Proline 4 inch dredge.
 
Here is a document from www.keeneeng.com (posted with permission (unedited))

In the beginning of the Gold Rush, the miners were limited because they could only work the areas that were accessible to hand tools along the banks of the streams and rivers. Their equipment was limited to gold pans, sluice boxes and rockers. As time progressed and as they became more experienced, they realized that the deeper gavels in the riverbeds were often richer than the surface gravel along the banks.

In the early 1900s, several crudely built steam powered dredges were active on some of the northern rivers of California. The divers worked futility on the bottom of the rivers with heavy diving helmets and cumbersome diving suits.

Although history reveals that dredging has been in existence throughout the world for many years, it is just recently that it has reached such a high degree of popularity due to advanced technology in dredging equipment. Dredges of today are lighter, more portable and more efficient than ever.

Two Divers operating a New Keene 4 inch Dredge in shallow water.

A small portable backpack dredge of today can weigh as little as forty pounds and cost around eight hundred dollars. It can process as much gravel as a larger three hundred-pound dredge, some twenty years ago. One of the most exciting features of this type of dredge is that it allows the prospector to penetrate areas that were otherwise impossible to reach with heavier and more cumbersome equipment.

They are also far more efficient than the machines of old. It is not uncommon to see a dredge profitably working the tailings of some of the old mines and tailing dumps.

There are three basic types of dredges on the market today. They include surface dredge, submersible dredging tube and the underwater submersible dredge. The surface dredge is the most popular, efficient and versatile gold recovery machine.


 

The Surface Dredge

As the heading ofthis section implies, surface dredge floats on the surface of the water. The material is pumped to the surface through a suction hose into an efficient sluice box that is capable of recovering extremely fine particles of fine gold. The sluice box can either rest on the bank, or float on the surface of the water. Another advantage of the surface dredge is it can easily be operated with or without diving equipment. Marlex plastic floats are normally preferred as they are rugged and stable in rough water and are extremely lightweight.

Medium sized 4" gold dredge (Model # 4505PH)
Modern dredges are provided with a Single or “multi stage” recovery systems, such as a the new 3 stage sluice. The multi stage sluice boxes are preferred, because they have a greater capacity to recover a finer grade of gold and black sand concentrates that often hold values. Normally, the smaller size dredges from two to three inches in size are equipped with single sluice boxes, as their primary function is portability and compactness.

Large 8" dredge Model # 8222

Small back pack 2" dredge Model # 2004PJ

 

The Underwater Dredge

The underwater dredge is the less popular of the dredges available, because it lacks somewhat in its ability to recover as fine of gold as the surface type. It is designed mainly for compactness and portability, but is limited also in its application, as it is cumbersome to handle underwater.

The submersible dredge must be held relatively level while in operation and cannot reach around corners and hard to get at places. It also is not practical to use in shallow water, as it must be completely submergedin order to operate properly. It is physically described as a flared metal or plastic tube with an attached metal elbow at a forty five to sixty degree bend. High pressure water is pumped into the bend, creating a vacuum at the end of the bend. It is powered by a high pressure water pump which is normally located on a float that sets at the surface of the water and is pumped down to the dredge via a high pressure hose. At the end of the flared tube a riffle tray is attached containing a series of gold traps. As the gold bearing gravel is sucked into the dredge the heavier particles, including gold, becomes entrapped into the riffle tray. The lighter non gold bearing particles flow back into the river.

The submersible dredge of today is mainly used for sampling and when a good streak is found, the surface dredge is employed to do a more efficient job of recovery.

 


Power Jet
Submersible Suction dredge uses power jet and suction hose. Suspended under the water by a float system

Suction Nozzle
Submersible dredging tube uses a suction nozzle. It is handheld underwater for moving overburden quickly.

 

What is a Single Sluice Box, a Double Sluice Box, a Triple Sluice Box and the latest technology of the 3 Stage Sluice Box?

The single sluice box processes all dredged material through a single recovery box. A single box includes a short classifier screen at the entrance, to separate the larger cobbles from the smaller, which are most likely to contain small gold particles. This design is still used in most small dredges, due to their lightweight compact design.

The double or triple sluice also separates and classifies the dredged material at the entrance of the sluice. The smaller heavy material falls into separate sluices for a more selective recovery. When the dredged material is separated by size, it ensures better recovery. Higher velocity water is required to move the larger cobbles through the sluice. Lower speed or velocity is required to recover fine gold in the lower or separate sluices. When the speed is high enough to carry off the larger non-value cobbles through a single sluice box, a loss of fine gold can occur if the material and flow is not separated.

The latest technological design is the new 3 stage sluice box. The new box works similar to the double or triple sluice, classifying the fine material into separate compartments or sluices for processing. The differences are:

1. The material is classified 1/3 of the way down the box allowing the fine gold to fall and settle out of suspension

2. The material passes over two different classifier screens allowing more complete separation. Experience finer gold recovery, in a lighter and more compact dredge that will out perform any double or triple sluice on the market! This system is extremely easy to operate for quick and easy clean up. It provides quick identification of values in the primary recovery riffle section.

The top edges of the sluice box are rolled for Greater safety and strength. They are equipped with heavy duty latches and a longer rubber damper that is used for more even distribution of material over the recovery area to assist in settling fine gold out of suspension. Currently available only with 4, 5, and 6 inch dredges.


Representation of a 3 Stage Sluice Box

 

General Operating Instructions

The following information should provide you with a basic understanding of operating a portable dredge. For more complete understanding on this subject, we recommend you read any one of a variety of books available through the Keene Library of Books, such as The Gold Miners Handbook, Dredging for Gold or Advanced Dredging Techniques
The vacuum on a portable dredge is created by a "venturi principal". A volume of water is pumped through a tapered orifice (jet), by a special designed water pump. A high velocity jet stream is created within the jet tube producing a powerful vacuum. As indicated in the diagram gravel is dredged into the suction hose and is delivered to the sluice box header. As a slurry of water and gravel enters the header box and is spread evenly over a classifier screen. The smaller and heavier particles drop below the classifier screen into an area of less velocity, allowing a slower and more selective classification of values. Often values are recovered and easily observed before they even enter the riffle section. The lighter non bearing values and larger aggregate are returned back into the water. The riffles, or gold traps in the sluice box are best described as "Hungarian Riffles". This type of riffle has proven to be the most efficient gold recovery system. As material flows over the riffles a eddy current is formed between each riffle opening. This force allows the heavier material to settle out of suspension and the lighter, non value bearing material to be washed away. This continuous self cleaning principal allows a dredge to be operated for prolonged periods of time. Normal conditions require a sluice box to be cleaned only once or twice a day.
 

Priming the Pump:

Before starting the engine, the pump must be fully primed. This means the pump must be full of water and all air removed. All jetting pumps provided with our dredges have a mechanical water pump seal. Without the presence of water in the pump, friction could cause a seal to overheat and require replacement. Priming the pump on some of the smaller models is accomplished by thrusting the foot valve back and forth under the surface of the water in a reciprocating motion. This will cause water to become pumped into the foot valve assembly into the pump. A pump is fully primed when water is observed flowing out of the discharge end of the pump. It sometimes may become necessary to hold the discharge hose above the level of the pump to complete the priming operation. The larger dredges that have a rigid foot valve, are easily primed by removing the cap provided on the foot valve and filling, until water overflows. Caution must be exercised to prevent sand from entering the foot valve or intake portion of the pump. Excess amounts of sand could dam age the water pump seal, or pump impeller. It is recommended that the intake portion of the foot valve be placed in a sand free environment underwater, such as a small bucket or pan.
 

Priming the Suction Hose:

Priming the suction hose need not be of concern in most dredging operations, but is important to understand the principal. When the tip of the suction hose is taken out of the water during operation air will to enter the suction system and cause the suction power to cease temporarily, until submerged again. The suction will commence as soon as the air is passed through the system. It is important to ensure that no air leaks occur in the suction system.
 

Suction System Obstructions

The suction system can become jammed while dredging. This can be caused by dredging an excess of sand, causing the suction hose to load up, or a rock that has become stuck in the suction system. Rock jams generally occur in the jet, or just before entry into the jet. This can easily be cleared by removing the rubber plug located on the front of the header box and thrusting the probe rod through the header box and down through the jet in an effort to strike the obstructed area. It may occasionally be necessary to remove the suction hose to remove an obstruction. Sometimes obstructions can easily become dislodged by back flushing the system. Back flushing a suction system can be accomplished on some models by reversing the flow of the suction hose at the header box, by blocking the flow of the water as it enters the header box. If this is not successful. it may be necessary to locate the blockage in the transparent hose and dislodge it by a striking the obstruction, taking care not to damage the hose.
 

Solid Content:

Care must be exercised to prevent dredging excess amounts of sand. A solid to water balance must be maintained. The solid content being dredged should never exceed 10%. If a suction tip is buried into the sand and not metered properly the solid content could cause the suction hose to become overloaded with solids and suction will cease, this will also cause the sluice box to become overloaded with solid content, resulting in a loss of values.
 

Sluice Box Adjustment:

Most models have a slight adjustment to raise or lower the sluice box. The proper sluice box adjustment can effect the recovery of values. If the sluice does not have enough angle, the sluice box will "load up" causing the riffle openings to fill with unwanted excess material. Too much angle will cause the material to flow too fast, resulting in loss of values, evidenced by the riffles running too clean. The optimum adjustment of a properly working sluice box is evident by only a portion of the riffle visible while operating. A loss of values can also occur if the solid content of the suction discharge is too heavy in solid content. Remember, the solid content should not exceed 10 %. A normal sluice box tilt is approximately 1/2 inch to the running foot. A four foot sluice box should have an approximate tilt of 2".
 

Cleaning the Sluice Box:

Before attempting to clean the sluice box, it should be allowed to run with only water for a few minutes in order to wash out any excess gravel that have accumulated. Either turn engine off, or let run with a slow idle, then remove the classifier screen and replace the wing nut to prevent losing it. Unsnap the riffle latches, fold the riffle tray up, and let rest against the header box, taking care not to let it drop back into place while cleaning. This could result in a potential injury! Place a wide tray, bucket or large gold pan at the end of the sluice, then carefully roll up the riffle matting and wash into the container at the end of the sluice. Rinse any excess gravel that remains in the sluice into container. All material must be removed before replacing the riffle matting, riffle tray and classifier screen.
 

Engine Speed:

Most small engines are throttle controlled. The speed of the engine can be controlled with the use of a lever. Although the rated horsepower is achieved on most small engines at 3600 R.P.M., it may not be necessary to operate the dredge at full speed. Lower speeds conserve engine life and fuel economy. Be sure to read all instructions and especially the engine instructions that are provided with each unit.

NOTE: ENGINES ARE NOT SHIPPED FROM THE FACTORY CONTAINING OIL. OIL MUST ADDED PRIOR TO USE! ENGINES OPERATED WITHOUT SUFFICIENT OIL SUPPLY WILL INVALIDATE ENGINE WARRANTEE!

 

Trouble Shooting:

IF SUCTION DECLINES:
1. Check the suction device for an obstruction. An obstruction can be removed by probing the obstructed area with the provided probe rod. I may be necessary to check the suction hose for a visible obstruction. This can be remedied by either back flushing the system or dislodging the obstruction with a gentle blow.

2. Check the pump for loss of prime or blockage. The foot valve may be too close to the surface of the water and air may enter the intake of the pump via a small whirlpool. The pump intake or foot valve screen may be plugged with leaves or moss, restricting flow into the intake of the pump. Check and tighten all clamps to prevent an air leak.

 

If Priming the Pump Becomes Difficult:

1. Check all clamps for an air leak.

2. It may be necessary to check the foot valve for a small leak. This is accomplished by removing the foot valve assembly from the pump and blowing air into the hose portion of the assembly and listening for an air escape. It may be necessary to remove the hose and check the rubber valve for an occurrence of a leak, or for a small obstruction preventing the valve from sealing.

3. If a water pump seal is either defective or damaged, a leak will be evident on the inside portion of the pump around the drive shaft. Often a new pump will leak slightly, until the seal and gasket has become fully seated. This is a common occurrence in most new pumps.

 

Diagram of the Principal of Dredge Operation

 
 
 
(End of Keene document)
Stayin' warm when dredging in the winter when your wet can get be a little difficult at times...

We are fortunate here in the south  in that we can dredge year round if you have a brave heart and wetsuit heater.  It does get cold here, but not like up north.  I prefer to go when it is at least 40 degrees outside although I have gone when it was 28 degrees and the water was 36.  It depends on how much you are into finding gold.  Besides it has been said that cold water makes the gold float to the top of the streambed so it is easier to find.  Who said that?  Must of been a prospector. On a positive note there are no snakes or bugs in the winter. 

These are some things you should have to stay warm in the water.

  • 6.5 mm Wetsuit or thicker is a good start.  A dry suit if you can afford one.
  • 5 mm zip-up Kayaking boots.  They have a sole like a sneaker
  • Wetsuit Heater - this apparatus pumps warm water into your wetsuit.

Wetsuit Heater hose hooked up like this works real well.  Be sure to make the arms and legs long enough to fit down into your gloves and boots.

Do take the time to make sure your feet have the heater line fed into the inside of your ankle down to your arch.  (so it feeds to your toes,  else you will be sorry, mostly all the time, especially if you kick something.  :-)

Ah yes, a wetsuit heater works wonders in cold water.  I can remember those frozen fingers and toes when I first started.   Now I stay nice and warm when I am set up right.  Well worth the investment?  I can't say... depends.




Doing  a dredge cleanup.
  • Empty your dredge's concentrates into a tub.
  • Rinse all carpets into the tub
  • Pour tub's contents into a 5 gallon bucket - be sure to rinse tub into bucket
  • Fill tub with fresh water
  • Take your 10 and 20 mesh screen put inside each other so the 20 mesh is on the bottom
  • Pour excess water out of 5 gallon bucket
  • Take three handfuls of cons and put in mesh screen.
  • Work until all small particles are through the mesh.
  • Pour contents of 10 mesh screen into a gold pan.  This is where your nuggets will be.
  • Work the dirt in the 20 mesh until all small particles have dropped through screen.
  • Pour contents into another gold pan.  This is where your pickers will be.
  • Repeat until you have gone through your concentrates.
  • Pan out nugget and picker pan.
  • Pour excess water out of tub.
  • You can pan out the light sands from the cons in the tub  - pour your pan into another 5 gallon bucket. Repeat until you have reduced your concentrates.  However I usually just use the gravity bowl to wash out the light sands.
  • Run leftovers through gravity bowl and get your gold.
  • You also can run these concentrates through a smaller screen and run each set of cons through the gravity bowl to separate the fines from the small gold. (This method seems to get the most gold)
  • The better you classify the more of your gold you will get.




    Introduction

    to Hookah Diving
      
    There are two air supply systems that are used for underwater diving activities. One system, known as Self Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus (SCUBA), involves the use of high pressure metal tanks which are worn on the diver's back while diving. The equipment used in SCUBA diving is quite technical in nature, and SCUBA gear should not be used by persons who have not become a certified diver involving expensive, specialized instruction. Without a certification card indicating completion of such a course, you cannot purchase compressed air.
    Of course, the SCUBA air system has its advantages as well. A diver using SCUBA gear is literally "an entity unto himself," since he carries his life giving air supply on his back at all times. He can go anywhere he chooses, completely free of any ties with the world topside.
    There are many times when an underwater diver does not need the total freedom that is afforded by the SCUBA air system, particularly in cases in which the diver is submerged in a limited area for long periods of time.
    For these applications, the "Hookah" (Surface Air Supply) was invented. The Hookah air system uses no high pressure air tanks of the type worn on a diver's back. Instead, it uses a small air compressor which is located at the surface. It is commonly powered by a portable gasoline engine or electric motor, and the air is delivered to the diver via a floating air hose. With the Hookah system, the diver has an unlimited and nearly "cost free" air supply which will only stop flowing when the engine or motor that powers the compressor ceases to operate. This makes for a truly economical air system, which will quickly pay for itself when compared to the cost of refilling a SCUBA tanks every hour or so.
    The only operating cost for a Hookah system is fuel, since the vast majority of Hookah compressor units are gasoline powered. It is not uncommon to get two hours diving time on a single gallon of gas, which shows just how economical the Hookah air system can be.
    Most Hookah divers will have a partner working "topside" as a safety man, and he can refill the engine's gas tank as it starts getting low. This will enable the diver to stay submerged so long as he desires.
    THE AIR COMPRESSOR
    The Hookah air system begins at the diver's air compressor. Hookah compressors are small, lightweight, and of simple design. They are commonly constructed of an aluminum alloy, and utilize a rubber diaphragm as the means of air displacement. There are also compressors that use a "piston" arrangement to displace air and these types generally deliver more air at higher pressures than the diaphragm models. The moving parts inside a Hookah compressor are lubricated with Teflon for the life of the unit, and need no additional lubrication; to do so may actually damage the compressor. The air that is delivered by this type of Hookah compressor is pure, oil free air. It is however recommended that at least a 40 micron filter be included to remove any solid particles that may occur. This type of Hookah compressors contains sealed bearings rather than oil for lubrication which can contaminate the air supply. Most compressors utilize an “oil bath lubrication system which will contaminate the air supply.
    T80 Air Compressor belt driven Small one man compressor
    Hookah compressors operate at a relatively low pressure. The maximum pressure available from the higher capacity models is about 125 pounds per square inch. The higher the operating pressure, the lower the air output. Consistently high operating pressures (unless the unit specifically designed for high pressure use) will shorten the life of the compressor by a noticeable degree. Conversely, the LOWER the operating pressure, the greater the air output, and the longer the compressor life. A compressor should not be operated at high pressures unless a diver intends to be submerged at greater depths. If a diver is working at depths of 33 feet or less, he will need only 30 to 40 pounds per square inch for optimum operation of his regulator.
    Most Hookah compressors have a built in "pressure relief valve" which prevents excessive pressure from building up in the compressor head when the diver is only making a small "demand" on the compressor. This valve is usually preset at the factory at approximately 50 p.s.i., which will give the average diver at shallow depths enough air to operate his regulator while leaving enough pressure left over to allow for increased exertion.
    If a diver is breathing at a normal rate (light exertion), the pressure relief valve will occasionally "pop off" and shoot out a burst of air. This is normal, as it prevents excess buildup of pressure in the compressor head. If a diver is breathing heavily and is under physical exertion, he will be demanding all of the volume and pressure that the compressor can deliver. In this case, the pressure relief valve will rarely, if ever discharge excess pressure or "pop off."
    The type of Hookah compressor that is required for a given diving operation is dependent upon the extent of underwater physical exertion, the depth, and the number of divers that are connected to the system. A single diver under light exertion at shallow depths will require a relatively small air output that is measured in "cubic feet per minute," or "CFM". The same diver under heavy exertion will require additional air at a slightly higher pressure and volume.
    If more than one diver is connected to an air system, or if diving at greater than normal depths, more air volume at higher pressures may be required.
    THE AIR RESERVE TANK
    The next major component in the Hookah air system is the reserve tank. This very important piece of equipment performs four vital functions:
    The reserve tank operates as an air "reservoir," that supplies a constant volume of air at all times. If you are diving under heavy exertion and demanding a greater amount of air, the large volume of air in the reserve tank will supply the reserve air required. If you were breathing directly from compressor itself, your rate of inhalation might actually surpass the air volume provided by the compressor, and you would not get a sufficient amount of air.
    The reserve tank functions as a cooling and condensation vessel. Few divers realize it, but the air emerging from a Hookah compressor is quite hot, and can actually reach temperatures as high as 190 degrees.
    As the air enters the reserve tank, it will expand and cool. This expansion process will also condense most of the water contained in the compressed air. Hookah compressors, because of their small size, do not have the capability to remove the moisture from the air and hence, they deliver air with an appreciable moisture content. The expansion process in the reserve tank allows the water to condense, ensuring that the diver breaths less moisture in the air.
    The reserve tank also suppresses surges from the compressor or any temporary decrease in running speed. Often a the compressor's engine will run uneven due to moisture in the gasoline. The reserve tank can compensate for this by delivering an even flow of air.
    And finally, the most important function of all. The reserve tank will contain enough pressurized air to give the diver a couple of minutes breathing time, should his compressor, or engine failure run out of fuel. Equipment breakdown is not a pleasant thing to consider while working underwater, but is always a possibility. In the event of an engine failure without a reserve tank in the system, a diver could experience an immediate loss of air that could lead to desperation and panic. Any experienced diver will tell you, that panic is the leading cause of drowning incidents.
    THE AIR HOSE
    The next component in the Hookah air system is the air hose. Hookah air hose is made of a special vinyl plastic construction, is resistant to the effects of oil, gasoline and sunlight that exists in the environment.
    Conventional rubber hose should never be used for diving, because it will gradually deteriorate and become toxic. Hookah hose commonly has an inside diameter of 3/8ths. of an inch. It is constructed of an inner liner of food grade vinyl wrapped with a nylon webbing reinforcement and covered with a heavy duty PVC abrasion resistant wall. Hookah hose is designed to prevent kinking and collapsing that could prevent the flow of air being shut off
    A quality Hookah hose will be colored a bright yellow or orange, for a high degree of visibility. It will also float, so that any excess hose not actually being used will float on the surface, completely away from the diver, reducing the possibility of entanglements on the bottom. For example, if you are diving in ten feet of water but are using a thirty foot length of air hose, the excess twenty feet will float on the surface, completely away from you. A quality Hookah air will not impart any "flavoring" to the air, and should meet “FDA and OSHA” requirements.
    THE REGULATOR
    The regulator is an oral respiration device that is worn in the divers mouth. The regulator regulates the amount of air that is received by the diver each time he inhales. Because the divers nose is covered by his face mask, air must be inhaled through the divers mouth .
    There are two types of diving regulators, those designed for SCUBA use and those designed for Hookah applications. A SCUBA regulator is designed for use with SCUBA an air tank, and delivers maximum efficiency when operated at a pressure exceeding 100 p.s.i. They require a "first stage" valve assembly, attached to the SCUBA tank. The function of the first stage is to reduce the extremely high pressure of the air in the SCUBA tank from approximately 2,250 p.s.i. to approximately 180 p.s.i. This pressure then goes to the "second stage," which is the part that is worn in the diver's mouth. The second stage of a SCUBA regulator has a spring loaded "downstream" valve which delivers the correct amount of air to the diver when driven by an air pressure ranging from 100 to 250 p.s.i.
    A prospective Hookah diver must realize that SCUBA regulators CANNOT be used for Hookah applications without special modifications. A typical Hookah compressor operates in an average pressure range of 30 to 50 p.s.i., which is not enough pressure to drive the spring loaded downstream valve of a SCUBA regulator. A diver who already owns a SCUBA regulator, but who wishes to use it for Hookah applications, must take his regulator to a competent dive shop or repair station and get the regulator converted over for low pressure use; he should not attempt to do it himself. The conversion can be made by installing a set of low tension springs which will give maximum efficiency when operated at low Hookah pressures. A dive shop or repair station will also have the necessary test gauges, etc., to make certain the adaptation has been effective.
    A Hookah regulator is entirely different from a SCUBA regulator. It consists of a "second stage" only, which is fed directly from the output of the reserve tank via the air hose. There are no valve assemblies of the type that are used with SCUBA tanks. Hookah regulators employ a "tilt," or "pin" valve, which delivers a full air flow to the diver at a pressure as low as 30 p.s.i. This type of regulator is specifically designed for use with low pressure Hookah compressors. Hookah regulators, as are all modern regulators, are of the single hose, "demand" type. A "demand" regulator works on a relatively low volume of air, since it only has to deliver air as the diver breathes, or "demands" it.

    THE HARNESS
    A regulator should not be used for Hookah diving unless it is in conjunction with a "chest harness." The harness serves three principle functions:

    1. It keeps the air hose from getting in the diver's way when he is working underwater. The harness has a "back plate" which is automatically positioned over the center of the diver's back when the harness is worn. The back plate holds a "check valve," which acts as a "junction point" for the air hose and the regulator. Since the air hose terminates at the diver's back, it prevents potential entanglements around the diver's body.

    2. The regulator intake hose that attaches to the check valve prevents any pulling motion from the regulator while working underwater. For example; if a diver were moving around underwater and inadvertently came to the end of the air hose, the harness would absorb the shock and the regulator and would not be jerked from the diver's mouth.
    3. The check valve that is found on the back plate performs the third very vital function. It acts as a "safety gate" by shutting down the air system, allowing the air to travel in only in one direction. Should a burst or leak occur in the air line somewhere between the output of the compressor and the input of the check valve, it could prevent a vacuum occurring in the mouthpiece of the regulator or cause a diver to breath in a large amount of water that could cause panic. “ Never, ever, dive without a harness and check valve!"

    INCIDENTAL ACCESSORIES,
    HOSES, HINTS, PRECAUTIONS:

    One accessory hose item you will need is a short length of hose for routing the air output from the compressor to the input of the reserve tank. The type of hose that is needed depends upon the compressor you are using. Diaphragm models that operate in the 30 to 50 p.s.i. range use a simple hose connector that is made of hookah air hose.
    The high pressure, high volume piston compressors that are capable of delivering pressure of 100 p.s.i., require a connector made of special certified "heat resistant steam" hose, due to the fact that these models discharge air at higher temperatures.

    We highly recommend that all hookah systems be equipped with a particle filter. The particle filter should allow nothing larger that 40 micron to pass. This filter is best located at the discharge of the air reserve tank.

    When setting up a Hookah air system, you will frequently need an array of metal fittings. For use around water, you should use stainless steel or brass fittings only. This is especially important when diving in salt water.

    Fittings made of ferrous metal will rust or corrode when used in, or near a water environment.
    If your Hookah compressor is powered by a gasoline engine, make every effort to ensure that the engine exhaust (which contains deadly carbon monoxide gas), is always placed DOWNWIND from the compressor. This will help prevent exhaust from being accidentally pulled into the compressor's air inlet. Always use a “snorkel” extension on any compressor that can elevate the intake of the air supply away from engine exhaust contaminates.
    Never use a gasoline powered compressor in confined areas, such as underneath piers, in close, narrow grottos, etc. This will prevent the exhaust gases from dissipating into the atmosphere safely. Also, never dive in an area where there is little ventilation or air movement. Take special precautions when diving in areas where the air is extremely still, as dead air spaces, or poor ventilation can cause exhaust gases to linger in the immediate area of the engine and compressor unit.
    Always install a long extension on the intake of your compressor to avoid the possibility of contamination of Carbon Monoxide Gas from the engine exhaust system. The air intake of a compressor must tower over the engine exhaust at a sufficient height or distance to avoid intake of engine exhaust gas. If this gas is inhaled even in small quantities for short periods, it can cause severe headaches and possibly result in sickness. In larger quantities it can kill you, so please be careful!
    If you are using Hookah equipment around salt water, be sure to rinse off all your components with freshwater afterwards. This includes your regulator, diving mask, harness, metal fittings, and air hose (flush it out on the inside as well as outside). A salt water environment will quickly corrode aluminum parts such as: Hookah compressors and gasoline engines. It is advisable to keep all metal components freshly painted and cleaned to avoid excess corrosion.
    If you are using a gasoline powered compressor always shut of the engine before attempting to refuel. Do not attempt to refill the engine's gas tank while the engine is still running, as this will increase the possibility of spilling gasoline onto a hot engine, which could result in a potential fire or cause an explosion.
    A diver should always surface and shut off the engine first prior to refueling and allow time for the engine to cool down. Always use a funnel for refilling the gas tank, or a special spill proof gas container to prevent spillage.
    Every Hookah diver should understand the basic rudiments of engine and compressor maintenance, and should always keep his equipment in top condition. If you take proper care of your equipment, it will give you many years of trouble free service. Knowing how to work on your own equipment will also come in handy, should you experience any mechanical failure on a diving trip. It is a good idea to carry
    along some spare parts for your air compressor, and the necessary tools to make repairs.
    All of the basic "rules of the deep" that apply to SCUBA diving also apply to Hookah diving as well.

    UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOU DIVE ALONE.! Always Hookah dive with a partner who owns his own regulator, harness, and air hose.

    Make sure that his or her equipment as well as yours is attached to the air system at all times. If you were to experience underwater problems, your "diving partner" should be available to come to your immediate assistance.

    Even though no formal instruction is required to use Hookah equipment, we strongly recommend that all divers should take a
    “CERTIFIED SCUBA” course at your local county or diving supply store.

    You should also read books on the subject of underwater diving safety and study them thoroughly. This will further familiarize you with the "rules of the deep."
    WARNING CARBON MONOXIDE GAS

    If you're considering diving with a "Hookah Compressor" , It is most important that you become aware of Potential Danger associated with exhaust emissions. We place a caution label on the engine, warning of dangerous engine fumes and also illustrate further warning in " Introduction to Hookah Diving" and Safety in Gold Dredging that is issued with the purchase of all diving equipment.

    WHAT IS CARBON MONOXIDE GAS?
    Carbon Monoxide is an invisible odorless gas which gives no warning of its presence. It is the product of the incomplete burning of any material such as ; Oil Gasoline, Wood, Coal, etc. that contains carbon.

    WHAT IS THE EFFECT OF CARBON MONOXIDE EXPOSURE?
    Carbon Monoxide deprives the blood of its ability to carry oxygen throughout; the body. When Carbon Monoxide is inhaled , it chemically combines with hemoglobin, the oxygen carrier in the blood. Even if there is plenty of oxygen in the air, hemoglobin combines much more readily with Carbon Monoxide than with oxygen. As the oxygen level of the blood is reduced, the heart must pump faster in an effort to supply sufficient amounts of oxygen to the brain and other parts of the body. When the brain does not receive enough oxygen, symptoms of headache, dizziness and mental confusion occur. Further exposure to the gas causes lack of coordination, weakness and nausea. The final effect of excessive exposure are convulsions, coma and death.

    Needless to say, we cannot emphasize strongly enough that caution must be excersized. Never dive alone, never dive in an enclosed area, or in an area where good ventilation is not eminent such as; under piers, narrow grottos, under heavily overgrown brush or trees or in any area where a good breeze does not occur. Always make an effort to position your air unit to allow the prevailing breeze to carry any exhaust emissions away from the air intake of the compressor.

    Remember, Carbon Monoxide is the product of incomplete burning of gasoline and oil, so it most important to keep your unit properly running and clean. Never allow gasoline to overfill or spill anywhere near engine and compressor.

    THE SAFETY AIR SNORKEL DOES NOT ELIMINATE CARBON MONOXIDE GAS, IT ONLY AIDS IN THE REDUCTION OF FUMES. ALL THE SAFETY CAUTIONS MUST BE OBSERVED !

     
     
     
              
     
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